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1. Peanut butter: the vegetarian conspiracy

There is something quintessentially American about peanut butter. While people in other parts of the world eat it, nowhere is it devoured with the same gusto as in the United States, where peanut butter is ensconced in an estimated 85% of home kitchens. Who exactly invented peanut butter is unknown; the only person to make that claim was Dr. John Harvey Kellogg, the chief medical officer at the Sanatarium, the fashionable health retreat in Battle Creek, Michigan. Kellogg, a vegetarian who invented Corn Flakes, was seeking an alternative for “cows’ butter.” He thought puréed nutmeats might work, and in the early 1890s Kellogg experimented with processing nuts through steel rollers. He served the nut butters to his patients at the Sanatarium, who loved them. Remarkably, in less than a decade peanut butter would emerge from the province of extremist “health nuts” to become a mainstream American fad food.

America’s elite visited the Battle Creek Sanatarium to recover their health, and many fell in love with the foods served there—particularly peanut butter. It soon became a passion with health-food advocates nationwide, and newspapers and magazines quoted vegetarians extolling its virtues. A vegetarianism advocate, Ellen Goodell Smith, published the first recipe for a peanut butter sandwich in her Practical Cook and Text Book for General Use (1896).

Homemade peanut butter was initially ground in a mortar and pestle, but this required considerable effort. It was also made with a hand-cranked meat- or coffee-grinder, but these did not produce a smooth butter. Joseph Lambert, an employee at the Sanatarium, adapted a meat-grinder to make it more suitable for producing nut butters at home. He also invented or acquired the rights to other small appliances, all intended to simplify the making of nut butters. These included a stovetop nut roaster, a small blancher (to remove the skins from the nuts), and a hand grinder that cranked out a smooth, creamy product. In 1896, Lambert left the Sanatarium and set up his own company to manufacture and sell the equipment.

Lambert mailed advertising flyers to households throughout the United States, and some recipients who bought the equipment started their own small businesses selling nut products. As nut butters became more popular, these machines proved inadequate to keep up with demand, so Lambert ramped up production of larger ones. He also published leaflets and booklets extolling the high food value of nuts and their butters. His wife, Almeda Lambert, published A Guide for Nut Cookery (1899), America’s first book devoted solely to cooking with nuts.

Vegetarians — who at the time practiced what we may now consider veganism — enjoyed all sorts of nut butters, which weren’t simply novel spreads for sandwiches but also sustaining, high-protein meat substitutes. But peanuts were the cheapest nuts, and it was peanut butter that dominated the field. It was first manufactured in small quantities by individuals and sold locally from door to door, but before long, small factories sprang up and peanut butter became a familiar article on grocers’ shelves. The American Vegetarian Society (AVS) sold peanut butter and actively promoted its sale through advertisements in magazines. In 1897 the AVS also began promoting the sale of the “Vegetarian Society Mill,” with an accompanying eight-page pamphlet encouraging vegetarians to create home-based peanut butter businesses. Vegetarians all over the country began to manufacture commercial peanut butter. The Vegetarian Food & Nut Company, in Washington, D.C., sold a product called “Dr. Shindler’s Peanut Butter” throughout the United States for decades. The company also produced private-label peanut butter for grocery store chains, and non-vegetarians quickly adopted the tasty new product.

The Atlantic Peanut Refinery in Philadelphia, launched in December 1898, may have been the first company to use the words “peanut butter” on its label. The term was picked up by other commercial manufacturers, although a New Haven, Connecticut, manufacturer preferred the term “Peanolia,” (later shortened to Penolia), and registered it in 1899.

By 1899, an estimated two million pounds of peanut butter were manufactured annually in the United States, and by the turn of the century, ten peanut-butter manufacturers competed for the burgeoning US market. From its origin just six years earlier as an alternative to creamery butter, peanut butter had established itself as an American pantry staple and a necessity for schoolchildren’s lunch pails.

Headline image credit: Peanut Butter Texture, by freestock.ca. CC-BY-SA-3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

The post Peanut butter: the vegetarian conspiracy appeared first on OUPblog.

0 Comments on Peanut butter: the vegetarian conspiracy as of 11/25/2014 7:34:00 AM
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2. between the slices (part two): sandwich personalities




ants illo by lisa.loo77.


So, writers crave reubens and grilled cheese, while Paddington lives for marmalade (never mind that a sandwich stored under his hat for weeks could be misshapen, soggy and covered with fur).

Harriet the Spy favored tomato sandwiches, Wimpy scrounged hamburgers, and of course, Elvis noshed on peanut butter, banana and bacon.

A sandwich is a sandwich is a sandwich.


photo by keaggy.com.

Ever since John Montague, Fourth Earl of Sandwich (1718-1792), wanted to eat while gambling without getting his hands greasy (thereby indirectly "inventing" the modern-day sandwich), the ingenious practice of placing fillings of meat, veggies, or almost anything between slices of bread has captured the minds, hearts, and appetites of people all over the world.
 
In the U.S. alone, 300 million of these beauties are consumed each day, with cool names like hero, hoagie, monte cristo, croque-monsieur, butty, panini, fluffernutter, po' boy, submarine, and mother-in-law. I'm willing to bet that if you thought about it for a moment, you could associate a type of sandwich for each stage of your life, or most every place you've ever been.

My childhood in Hawai'i was punctuated with tuna, bologna, and luncheon meat -- white bread sandwiches with lots of mayo (mustard was reserved strictly for hot dogs). I remember the thrill of discovering the french dip in high school and meatball subs in college. It wasn't until I moved to England that I encountered those dainty, crustless tea sandwiches, little mouthfuls so "civilized," I positively waxed poetic after each bite.


photo by SatrinaO.

When I ventured to Japan for the first time one summer, I happily devoured my fair share of vegetable sandwiches; they were so light and refreshing, a total surprise in a place where I expected nothing but white rice. A trip to Cape Cod (LOVE that place) yielded an ecstatic eyes-roll-back-in-the-head liaison with a sumptuous Provincetown "lobstah" roll. I can still remember that beautiful sunny day, the little restaurant full of chatter and chew, the lightly toasted bread, the fresh, succulent chunks of lobster married to creamy dreamy dressing. *swoon* 

Just last November, when Len and I flew up to NYC to see Dylan, we wandered into the Stage Deli, where humongous sandwiches are named after famous patrons. Ah, the mountains of pastrami, corned beef, turkey, salami, swiss cheese, smoked ham and tongue (ergh)! 


photo by mooshee85.

Seriously. Where would we be without the Italian sub, the Jewish deli, those post-Thanksgiving hot turkey sandwiches drowning in gravy, ballpark hotdogs, the all-American burger on the 4th of July, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches lovingly tucked into lunch boxes and brown bags? Could there be a more intimate way of eating -- cradling fresh bread in hand, bread that encloses, caresses, complements, and protects its filling to the last bite?


photo by mooshee85.

Though one's preferences are influenced to some extent by region, ethnicity, age, and family traditions, it's fun to consider  whether they could also be connected to something more emotional, like personality. Recently, Best Foods/Hellmann's commissioned a study* conducted by the Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago. About 2700 participants were given a battery of pychiatric/personality tests, and then asked which sandwich they preferred from among these eight: club, chicken salad, tuna, seafood salad, egg salad, BLT, turkey, and ham and cheese.

After the results were correlated, the following profiles were established by Dr. Alan Hirsch and his team. (Widely popular favorites like PB&J and grilled cheese were not among the choices, because they would skew results.) Select your fave of the eight listed, then see if the profile fits. Is it true that tuna lovers are aggressive and achievement oriented, or that egg salad people like to be the center of attention? And which other sandwich types are you most romantically compatible with?

SANDWICH PERSONALITIES

THE CLUB: Individuals who prefer the Club sandwich are often agreeable and unselfish. Club sandwich eaters are reliable and strongly devoted to work as well as relationships. The best words to describe those who prefer the club sandwich: committed and loyal. They are most compatible with those who chose Club, BLT, or turkey.

photo by Quan Nyugen.

HAM & CHEESE: Ham and cheese lovers are curious and have a wide range of interests. They are most productive and creative when working alone without direct supervision. The best words to describe ham and cheese lovers: thoughtful and inquisitive. H&C people are often independent without strong romantic ties.

photo by justine.foong.

TURKEY: Those who prefer the turkey sandwich are free-thinkers. They function best when given space at work and in relationships. The best words to describe turkey lovers: creative and rebellious. They are often attracted to other turkey sandwich lovers.

photo by babythinkitover.

TUNA SALAD: Tuna salad eaters are generally aggressive and achievement-oriented. They are natural leaders and driven to succeed in both work and personal relationships. The best words to describe tuna lovers: competitive and successful. They are most romantically compatible with those who prefer egg salad and others who also like tuna salad.

photo by Accidental Hedonist.

EGG SALAD: Egg salad eaters are often the center of attention. They are entertaining and crave adventure. Best words to describe egg salad lovers: charming and energetic. Egg salad sandwich people are the "universal romantics" and are often compatible with all sandwich lovers.

photo by sameold2008.

CHICKEN SALAD: Individuals who prefer chicken salad sandwiches are well-adjusted and empathic. Best words to describe CS eaters: easy-going and understanding. Most romantically compatible with egg salad lovers.

photo by Adam Kuban.

SEAFOOD SALAD: Similar to those who prefer the Club, seafood salad fans are agreeable and unselfish. They seek comfort in close, secure relationships. Best words to describe them: commitment and loyalty. Most romantically compatible with BLT or other seafood salad eaters.

photo by Quasimondo.

BLT: Bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich lovers are conscientious perfectionists. They are devoted in all areas of their lives: work, home and relationships. Best words to describe them: honest and full of integrity. BLT eaters are most compatible with seafood salad sandwich lovers.

photo by jasonperlow.

Well, that was quite a platterful. My fave? Chicken salad. Does the profile fit? Let's see. Empathic? Yes. Well-adjusted? Questionable ☺. Problem is, though CS is my fave, and lobster (seafood) salad is my ideal sandwich, almost every single day I have the same lunch: smoked turkey on multi-grain with lettuce and mayo. I'd like to think I'm a free-thinker, and I can be shockingly rebellious (eating dessert first). 

What are you having for lunch?


photo by mooshee85.

Thank you, my darlings, my sandwiches.

Ever yours,

jama ♥
a native of the Sandwich Isles
xxoo

*study controls: those polled were predominantly from the Midwest; sandwich choices were mayo-oriented, understandable with Best Foods/Hellmann's as the sponsor.

Copyright © 2009 Jama Rattigan of jama rattigan's alphabet soup. All rights reserved.

 

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3. between the slices (part one): what kind of sandwiches do writers love?



"Too few people really understand a good sandwich." ~ James Beard


Well of course.

If you ask a bunch of writers what their favorite sandwiches are, they're not going to be satisfied with simple answers like "ham and cheese" or "tomato."
 
No, they will pause a moment, conjure up a recent reubenesque rendezvous, then proceed to give you all the living, breathing details. Writers thrive on sensuality. It's in the genes like genoa salami. And there are always conditions, little things that spell the difference between ho-hum and heavenly. Writers are, if nothing else, specific

When I took "orders" for sandwiches last week, I was reminded of the restaurant scenes in "When Harry Met Sally." Reading everyone's preferences was a delicious meal in itself -- types of bread, cheeses, meats, veggies, spreads and condiments had me salivating all afternoon and craving a good dilly dally with a dagwood. 

My highly scientific soup survey of 2008 revealed that most writers prefer tomato. The sandwich results were surprisingly similar; tomatoes were frequently mentioned in combination with lettuce, cheese, bacon or by itself. Overall, comfort food sandwiches received the most votes. Yes, there was mention of more sophisticated indulgences like oysters, hummus, baba ghanoush, and ciabatta rolls, but when push came to shove, grilled cheese and reuben sandwiches dominated. Those who mentioned other sandwiches as their favorites tended to mention grilled cheese as a second or third choice, as though feeling the need to include a childhood friend.


Grilled cheese by c. buras.

Cheese is dairy, consciously or subconsciously reminding us of our mothers' milk. Can't get any closer to the source than that. Long after we've grown up and become independent beings, our food choices inevitably strip us down to our essential selves. But aside from cheese, there was all kinds of tasty goodness. Read for yourself what 25 writers said when asked to name their favorite sandwich:

                 
                        photo by platinum army.

THE BREAD LINE:

"Pesto, fresh mozzarella, basil and sun-dried tomatoes!" - Tricia Stohr-Hunt.

"Grilled cheese (sharp cheddar and Swiss, preferably), with extra-crispy bacon on it. Hey, I'm hungry." - Laura Purdie Salas

"My fried egg sandwich. Fry onions. Fry egg (lots of salt). Toast bread. Spread mayonnaise on hot toasted bread so it sort of melts. Put egg and onions on toast. Eat. A la Julie and Julia . . . YUM! :)"
- Becky Levine

"Debra's out-of-this-world chicken salad sandwiches! Made with diced apples, walnuts, golden raisins, pickle relish, celery, mayo and a splash of Catalina dressing. But that's all I can say. It's a well-kept family secret!" - Charles Ghigna

"Pepper jack cheese, just a bit of salami, red onion, lettuce, tomato, sprouts, cucumber, avocado, and pepperoncini, on sourdough or Dutch crunch." - Sarah Stevenson

"Fakin' bacon, lettuce and tomato with mayonnaise on flax bread (how boringly healthy, right? lol!)(but, is there anything else quite like a sliced tomato hot out of the garden? I think not!" - Julia Karr

"Family favorite: Turkey and Bacon. Plain or poppyseed kaiser roll, mayonnaise, Boarshead Ovengold turkey with pepper and salt and tasty fried bacon. Even better with a bag of chips, and heavenly the next morning when wrapped in foil in the fridge." - Allison Fraclose

"A Montreal old-fashioned smoked meat!" - Grace Lin

"Toasted sesame bagel with hummus, cucumber, and tomatoes."
- Erin Eitter Kono.

"Philly steak sandwich with lots of thinly sliced beef and fried onions. No other veggies, please, especially not peppers. Peppers totally ruin it. And the bread has to be big and soft, not crunchy."
- Shevi Arnold

"The sandwiches all sound so good! My favorite is roasted eggplant, grilled onions and peppers, sliced tomato, feta cheese on a fresh ciabatta roll." - Vivian Lee Mahoney

"OMG! I LOVE all these sandwiches! When I'm in New Orleans, I can't resist a good Oyster Po' Boy with fried oysters, lettuce, mayonnaise, and tomatoes, sandwiched between slices of French bread."  - Edna Cabcabin Moran

"Oh, man! I have three faves! But I'll pick one! :) I like reubens minus the sauerkraut." - Kelly Maple Polark


The Reuben (writers' top pick) by Spencer Hooks.

"If I'm picking just one sandwich, it's probably egg salad with sliced green olives in it, preferably on toast, but Pepperidge Farm white bread will do just fine either way." - Kelly R. Fineman

"For comfort food, I like grilled cheese sandwiches on white bread, served with tomato soup, of course. When I want a fancy deli sandwich, I spread thick layers of hummus and cream cheese, then add cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, provolone, and avocado -- on ciabatta bread, please, hold the mayo." - Melodye Shore

"Tuna Melt!" - Heidi R. Kling

"I would happily eat all of the sandwiches listed above. Some of my favorites: BLTA (bacon, lettuce, tomato, avocado), Reuben made with red cabbage, sour-cream herring and lettuce, egg salad. Then again, I'm happy with baba ganjouj on lavash bread." - Farida Dowler

"I'm not a big sandwich fan and am cutting back on bread in general. But I have fond memories of eating a kaas broodje -- Gouda cheese on a thick roll in the lobby of the Rotterdam Hilton." - Barbara Etlin

"I'm a big fan of the basics. I'll never turn down a good grilled cheese or PB&J, and it's even better if the PB&J is on toasted bread, or grilled. Melty PB = ♥. I've occasionally wanted a childhood favorite of Oscar Meyer bologna with mayo. However, I've enjoyed some more interesting sandwiches at various delis, bagelries, etc., like turkey with provolone and cranberry sauce." - Debbie Fulmer

"Hmmmm . . . so hard to pick. A good 'ol veggie sub with extra cheese. OR a tomato mozzarella sandwich." - Julie Danielson

"I like ham and cheese sandwiches. But the ham must be Chinese-style and the cheese must be Edam cheese. :D " - Tarie Sabido

"No way I can pick just one. No way. But if my life depended on it or something, I would say a Reuben. But it has to be a perfect Reuben, because that is one sandwich that can either be a culinary masterpiece or a disaster. Perfectly crispy bread and lean meat, super thinly sliced are my pet peeves. For your general interest, my other favorites: Cuban -- this might actually be tied with the Reuben. Hmm . . . no . . . Reuben wins. A good club. Good, white meat Chicken Salad. BLT. PB&J or Grilled Cheese cannot be overlooked here either. Oh dear. I am so hungry now. Drooling."
- Paula Brown

"A nice tuna melt. Yumm!" - Marivee

"The Reuben. And, the good ol' fashioned and very simple tomato sandwich on toasted bread with tons of mayo. Num!" - Laura

"My FAVORITE SANDWICH OF ALL is the falafel sandwich." - Mindi Scott (Click here to read Mindi's issues with the second halves of sandwiches.)

"My favorite when I am CARRIE WHO EATS MEAT: Turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce. My favorite when I am CARRIE WHO DOESN'T WANT TO KILL ANIMALS: Avocado, Brie, Lettuce, Tomato." - Carrie Jones

"I don't eat a lot of sandwiches -- but some I do like: Reuben, BLT, grilled cheese with tomato/tomato & bacon, fresh mozzarella with basil and tomato (with maybe a drizzle of balsamic vinegar). There was a wonderful sandwich shop in the town where I taught. They made fantastic sandwiches there. One of the sandwiches was called a Jose Jr. It was a double-layer sandwich with ham, turkey, roast beef, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and cole slaw." - Elaine Magliaro



PB and J come out of hiding.

So, what does all this mean? Stay tuned for Part Two: "Sandwich Personalities." Enjoy a yummy sandwich today to celebrate National Sandwich Month, and feel free to add your faves in the comments!

"It has been well said that a hungry man is more interested in four sandwiches than four freedoms." ~ Henry Cabot Lodge, Jr., American diplomat

Copyright © 2009 Jama Rattigan of jama rattigan's alphabet soup. All rights reserved.


 

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4. your favorite sandwich, please!




August is National Sandwich Month, and I'm dying to know if there is any one particular kind of sandwich writers, poets, illustrators, and/or book bloggers prefer.

Please share your faves in the comments, and I'll post the results next week. I want a list as big as this dagwood ☺.

Thanks! ♥

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